Nirisar Its crude but it works for me. Last edited by wjfk32; at Dave 86 Fl. Get advice from PowerWriter shops. GL Walt Last edited by wjfk32; at Test posts are permitted. AIC Function Up to 2 additional injectors can be controlled. Quote message in reply?
|Published (Last):||26 April 2008|
|PDF File Size:||2.64 Mb|
|ePub File Size:||16.17 Mb|
|Price:||Free* [*Free Regsitration Required]|
You say you are going to run psi on stock turbos. Frankly, I agree with Max that 20 psi is beyond the design parameters of the stock turbo system. What I have to say would be best applied for, say psi. I defer to 3rd gen owners for better figures. There are some limitations to this kind of rig. Thus, if you tune it on a hot day, it may be a bit off when the temperature drops. This would not be much of a problem in Southern California or Florida, but it is a concern in locations where there is wide variation in temps over the year.
The boost dependent FPR works through the stock injectors, and is thus affected by all the parameters measured by the stock ECU as translated into the injector duty cycle. You can see how this can become confusing when you are trying to make fine adjustments. Since the ECU, the boost dependent FPR, and the Additional Injector Controller do not "talk" to each other, and do not operate with the same input, you cannot control your fuel mix as consistently as you can with other fuel enrichment options aftermarket chip, piggyback controller, Motec, Haltech, etc.
This is not much of a problem with a car like mine, running relatively low boost with a lot of headroom, but I am skeptical about the wisdom of using it for the kind of boost you specified. Besides, at those kinds of boost levels you would probably need some kind of ignition timing control to keep the engine happy. You get the benefit of integration and timing control in the more comprehensive aftermarket systems--even a relatively inexpensive chip upgrade.
Since the system you propose is relatively imprecise, and can change performance literally as the weather changes, you will need some way to monitor it at all times. Still, I recommend one as a gross indication of the health of your system. You said your car would be dyno tuned, but that tuning may not be accurate over a period of months and under changing conditions.
Boost dependent FPRs are not particularly noted for being consistent over the years. As a final caution, I understand that dyno tuning by itself is not a guarantee of good results.
The instructions at least with my earlier version were pretty vague. They describe the functions of the various controls, but do not give a procedure for step by step tuning. Here is a basic way to go about it. The usual disclaimers apply. This is just what I came up with after living with my system for a few years. Finding this point takes a little experimentation, but is made easier by the fact that since the FPR is only activated by boost, the adjustable parameters of the FPR will have served their purpose by the time the car is at the lowest RPM where full boost is available.
I have no experience with 3rd gens that you can get the car safely to 12psi at rpm with just the FPR. You can determine this point because if you adjust the FPR for more pressure, you will get a rich condition when you reach max boost. Now switch the AIC on.
Set the boost threshold to activate at 12 psi where the FPR runs out of poop , and set the Boost Gain around mid point or higher. The Boost Gain control simply adds more fuel as a function of boost pressure, so set it to provide additional fuel starting from where the FPR leaves off 12 psi in the example , and ending at highest setting you think you will use say 15 psi.
Said another way, the Boost Gain control is responsible for the different fuel needs reflected when you run the engine at 12 psi and at 15 psi. As with the FPR, boost pressure will max out at relatively low RPM, so the effect of this control will be most obvious in that range.
Put the RPM Gain control to maximum. This is the control that is responsible for taking the car from full boost lowest rpm to full boost at redline. As you do your dyno runs, you can fine-tune the car. If it tends to go rich or lean as revs build but after full boost is reached adjust the RPM Gain control accordingly.
If the car goes rich or lean as it reaches full boost, adjust the Boost Gain control accordingly. The only control you might touch during day-to-day operation is the Boost Gain control, which will adjust the whole curve richer or leaner at max boost. As I said earlier, this kind of "shade tree" messing around with the system is of little consequence on a car running conservative boost.
It could be disaster if you are trying to push 15 psi, and err a little on the lean side. Bottom line: AICs are not cheap, and you could probably get a suitable chip for your ECU that would give you better results with more control for the same money. If you really MUST get to 20 psi, I should think you would need an entire aftermarket engine management system, and you would have to ditch the stock turbos. Max Cooper covered that topic much better than I ever could.
On the other hand, if you are looking for a relatively low-tech approach for fuel supplementation with an aftermarket turbo, or for safety if you are going to push stock boost pressures by a couple of pounds, a boost dependent FPR coupled with an AIC is a reasonable approach.
Sooner or later you WILL experience a lean running condition--either as you initially try to tune the system or later in its life when something goes on the fritz, clogs up, or comes loose.
HKS: Accessories: VALCON
You say you are going to run psi on stock turbos. Frankly, I agree with Max that 20 psi is beyond the design parameters of the stock turbo system. What I have to say would be best applied for, say psi. I defer to 3rd gen owners for better figures. There are some limitations to this kind of rig.
HKS: Accessories: AIC
It depends on stock ECU program condition, but basically there is no influence. There was no case of engine failure because of the SLD usage. What is the SW setting in the manual? What do I have to do? SLD has to set the right switch for the your automobiles. If you set the switch after IG-ON, the setting might not be executed. Please check for these settings again.